On June 11, 1956 –Givaudan- Swiss Company did not know the chemical, which was granted a patent by them, going to be banned in March 2022. They had given a shorter name to the chemical ‘Lilial’ and this became the starting point to write a new history of the lily of valley in Perfumery.
Lyral-1960 American Company IFF synthesized and started manufacturing it with the name Lyral.
Step by step these two material started using in perfumery, as they not only complimenting each other, but also started to use a universal natural “filler” for every perfume genre including Floral, Fruity, woody-balsamic, Chypre, fougereetc.
In 2017, the European commission (EU) applied new rules to full prohibition of certain aromatic ingredients, these are Atranol, Chloratranol and Hydroxyisohexyl-3-cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde (HICC).
Atranol and Chloratranol are found in crude oakmoss, and HICC is known more in perfumery lovers as Lyral-It possesses a gentle floral scent-Lily of valley.
There is one more lily of valley odorant that fall into disfavor by the EU is Butylphenyl methyl propional (BMHCA)-Perfumer’s favorite “Lilial”.
In 2014 EU officially put Lilial in the restricted product list at the same time P&G also publically stated that they will ban the use of Lilial in 2016. Revised document of EU from October 2021 states:Lilial classified as Prohibited substance –Toxic for reproduction and banned from use in cosmetics as of March 2022.
Now major fragrance companies are struggling to develop new products to cope with the no use of Lilial and Lyral.
If you are curious which fragrances will be influenced by this development, take heed.
